- What's the difference between the HHKB Professional Hybrid and Hybrid Type-S?
- Both use 45g Topre switches, connect by Bluetooth to up to four devices or by USB-C, and run on two AA batteries. The Type-S has PFU's silenced key structure, which it describes as built for speed and quiet, and a 3.8mm keystroke against 4.0mm on the plain Hybrid. Expect a softer, quieter sound from the Type-S. Check the model number in the listing, since a trailing S means Type-S, and an 820 code means the Japanese layout.
- Should I buy a Leopold FC660C over a Realforce R3 or an HHKB?
- Buy the FC660C if you want Topre in a small board with dedicated arrow keys. It's a 66-key board with 45g Topre switches, and few Topre boards that size have arrows. The HHKB is smaller but has no arrow keys. The Realforce R3 comes as a full-size or TKL board and adds Bluetooth, and its APC versions have an adjustable actuation point. If you don't need the small size, the R3 gives you more features. For a board to carry around, look at the HHKB.
- Can I put different switches in a Keychron Q1?
- Yes. The Q1 and the other Q-series boards are hot-swap for three-pin and five-pin MX-style switches, so you can pull switches out and fit new ones without soldering. Keychron shipped the Q1 with Gateron G Pro or Keychron K Pro switches. Pull switches straight up with a switch puller and line up the pins carefully when you push the new ones in. Test every key afterwards on a key-test site.
- Which used keyboard listings get mixed up most often?
- Look-alike siblings. A Leopold FC660C is Topre and an FC660M is Cherry MX, in nearly the same case. An HHKB PD-KB820 is a Japanese layout, and the English one is PD-KB800. A Keychron Q1 Pro is Bluetooth only, while a Q1 Max adds 2.4 GHz. The HHKB Studio uses mechanical switches, not Topre. Some sellers call any blue switch an MX Blue, so ask for a photo with a keycap pulled. When a title is vague, ask for the model number.
- What should I check in a used keyboard listing?
- Start with the exact model number from the box or label. Ask for a photo with a keycap pulled to confirm the switch, and ask whether the board is hot-swap. Ask for a video of every key on a key-test site, plus the space bar and Enter, to catch chatter and stabilizer rattle. Look at the keycaps for shine and worn legends, check the layout, and ask about battery life on wireless boards. Ask whether anything has been modified.